A pleasure for the palate

Santiago is an extremely dynamic culinary destination. Proof of this is the city’s authentic Mercado de Abastos (food market), the second most visited location, after the cathedral. All of Compostela invites visitors to relax and sample tapas at its sidewalk cafés, bars and restaurants

Seafood on display at Santiago’s Mercado de Abastos. Photograph: Turismo de Santiago

Grelos (turnip greens) from the farms of Ordes and Oroso. Fruits and vegetables from the Amaía and Ulla valleys. Peppers from Herbón (Padrón). Desserts with recipes based on almonds (such as Santiago cake) and egg yolks, many of them brought to Compostela by the religious orders. Cheeses from the Arzúa-Ulloa Designation of Origin and neighbouring districts. Aromatic breads baked in wood-burning ovens. Empanadas (savoury pies) of every kind. Meat, fish and seafood (with octopus as the star). All of the products that make up the Compostela ‘diet’ are on display at the Mercado de Abastos.

Depiction of an empanada in stone, Pazo de Xelmírez (12th century)

Interior of Santiago’s Mercado de Abastos

Garden produce for sale outside Santiago’s Mercado de Abastos. Photograph: Turismo de Santiago

Peppers from Herbón (Padrón). Photograph: Turismo de Santiago

O Franco Square

A Raíña Street

Exterior of Café Casino, in Rúa do Vilar

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Around the Mercado de Abastos (Praza de Santo Agostiño and surrounding streets) there is a thriving restaurant district where it is possible to sample the best local cuisine. These new eateries have joined the traditional wine and tapas spots in O Franco and A Raíña streets, and the San Pedro neighbourhood.

Located in a building dating from the mid-19th century, this market is one of city’s hallmarks. It is among the busiest markets in Galicia and the second most visited location in Santiago, after the cathedral. It is an absolute must-see any morning of the week, especially Saturdays (the most important day) and Thursdays. Fresh products, handicrafts and eating establishments (where you can even sample your own purchases) are the main attractions.

Santiago’s geographical location, between the coast and inland areas, has made the city a meeting place for products and culinary traditions from throughout Galicia. The culinary history of Compostela dates back to the earliest days of the Way of St. James. The first reference is carved in stone at Pazo de Xelmírez (Praza do Obradoiro): in the Salón de Ceremonias (great hall) or dining room of this magnificent space, one of the figures is carrying an empanada. The carving dates from the 13th century.

Around the Mercado de Abastos (Praza de Santo Agostiño and surrounding streets) there is a thriving restaurant district where it is possible to sample the best local cuisine. These new eateries have joined the traditional wine and tapas spots in O Franco and A Raíña streets, and the San Pedro neighbourhood.

Today, the entire old quarter invites visitors to discover bars, pulperías (eating establishments specializing in octopus) and restaurants. Another surprise is the city’s urban expansion area, known as the Ensanche, and the neighbourhoods of Santa Marta, Conxo, Vidán and San Lázaro, which offer a varied selection of culinary options for every budget.

And what better way to end a meal than by having a coffee at one of the many historic cafés: Café Derby (1929) on Praza de Galicia, Café Casino (1873) in Rúa do Vilar and Café Venecia (1962) in Rúa do Hórreo are three of the most iconic.

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